If you've ever looked for high-quality jewelry, you've probably come across the terms “diamond” and “brilliant.” Many people use them interchangeably, but each of these words has its own unique meaning.
In this article, we use our expert knowledge and attention to detail to show you the difference between diamonds and brilliants. You will learn what makes both so special and what you should look for when searching for a piece of jewelry with real sparkle.
What is a diamond?
A diamond is much more than just a gemstone—it is a wonder of nature and a symbol of permanence and rarity. Formed over millions of years under extreme pressure and intense heat deep within the earth, diamonds consist of pure carbon in a crystalline form that makes them the hardest natural material known to man.
Raw diamonds are usually unremarkable: dull, irregular, sometimes milky. Their true beauty only becomes apparent when they are cut by experienced cutters. The cut determines how the light is reflected inside – and how intensely a diamond sparkles.
A diamond can be cut in various ways – from the classic brilliant cut to the elegant emerald cut to historical variants such as the old cut. But regardless of the cut, one thing remains the same: the diamond is the basic material, the natural basis.
It is the heart of every brilliant-cut diamond – but not yet a brilliant-cut diamond in itself.
What is a brilliant?
A brilliant is not a gemstone in its own right, but rather a specific type of diamond cut. To be considered a brilliant, a diamond must be cut according to a very specific pattern – the so-called brilliant cut.
This cut was developed in the 17th century and perfected over time. Today, a modern brilliant cut consists of 57 or 58 facets arranged in such a way that they reflect light optimally. The result: maximum sparkle that clearly sets the brilliant cut apart from other cuts.
Only a round diamond with a brilliant cut may officially be called a “brilliant.” Other shapes – such as oval, princess, or heart – may also be cut to sparkle, but are not considered brilliant-cut diamonds in the strict sense.
The brilliant cut therefore stands for the highest level of cutting artistry, precision, and light play. It brings out the full potential of a diamond – and is therefore the most popular cut for engagement rings and fine jewelry. We have also used the brilliant cut in the diamond bail of our personalized fingerprint necklaces.
Where does the term “brilliant” come from?
The term “brilliant” comes from the French brillant, which means ‘shiny’ or “radiant.” It therefore does not describe the material itself, but rather the effect of the brilliant cut—the precise cutting process that is responsible for the intense sparkle of a diamond.
The term is protected in the jewelry industry: only round-cut diamonds with 57 or 58 facets may be referred to as brilliants. Other gemstones with a brilliant cut – such as rubies or sapphires – are correctly described as “brilliant cut,” but not as brilliants.
The difference between diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds – explained simply
Many people ask themselves: what is the difference between diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds? The answer is surprisingly simple – yet often misunderstood.
A diamond is a naturally occurring gemstone consisting of pure carbon. It is one of the hardest materials in the world and has been prized for centuries for its rarity, purity, and symbolic significance. In its raw state, however, a diamond is unremarkable – it is only when cut that its true beauty is revealed.
A brilliant, on the other hand, is a diamond with a very specific cut: the brilliant cut. This is characterized by a round shape and 57 or 58 precisely calculated facets. The aim of the cut is to refract and reflect light optimally – creating a sparkle that seems almost magical.
The decisive difference between a diamond and a brilliant is therefore not the material, but the processing:
- Diamond = the rough stone, the natural material
- Brilliant = the cut that unleashes the diamond's full potential
Or, in other words:
Every brilliant is a diamond – but not every diamond is a brilliant.
There are also many other diamond cuts, such as the old cut, the princess cut, and the emerald cut. These can give the stone its own unique character – but they do not automatically make it a brilliant.
So if you are looking for a piece of jewelry with a particularly intense sparkle, a brilliant is just right for you. It represents the highest level of cutting artistry, symmetry, and light play – and remains the most popular choice for engagement rings and classic diamond jewelry to this day.
Brilliant cut vs. old cut – subtle differences in the cut
The cut of a diamond not only determines its external shape, but above all how light interacts with the stone. It is therefore one of the most important factors in the visual effect and overall value of a piece of jewelry. Customers often compare the modern brilliant cut with the historical old cut – two cuts that appear similar at first glance but have very different characteristics.
Brilliant cut – technical perfection for maximum brilliance
The brilliant cut as we know it today is the result of decades of development in the art of cutting. With a total of 57 or 58 facets, precisely calculated angles, and a round base shape, it is designed to refract and reflect incident light as efficiently as possible. This special arrangement creates the typical intense sparkle that we associate with the term “brilliance” – hence the name.
The symmetry of the brilliant cut gives the stone a clear, modern look. It appears bright, lively, and absolutely precise—ideal for those who want to combine timeless elegance with technical sophistication. From a light yield perspective, the brilliant cut is also hard to beat. No other cut makes a diamond shine so intensely.
Old cut – unique handcrafted pieces with a nostalgic touch
The old cut has its roots in the 19th century, a time when diamonds were cut entirely by hand. Back then, the focus was not on maximum light reflection, but on a harmonious overall impression – guided by the skilled eye and experience of the cutter. The result: larger facets, softer lines, and often slightly irregular proportions.
It is precisely these irregularities that make the old cut so special. It appears warmer, more intimate, and exudes a touch of nostalgia. The stone does not sparkle as intensely as a brilliant cut, but it does so in its own unique, romantic way. Many find the old cut more lively and emotional – especially in jewelry with a historical character or vintage aesthetic.
The difference in detail – brilliant cut vs. old cut
Although both cuts are based on a genuine diamond, they differ significantly in terms of effect, origin, and appearance:
- Brilliant cut: modern, high-precision, very clear, highly sparkling
- Old cut: historical, handmade, gentle play of light, individual character
The difference between an old cut diamond and a brilliant cut diamond is not in the material itself – it remains a diamond – but in the way the stone has been cut. For some, it is the technically perfect sparkle that counts, for others it is the authentic charm of a hand-cut unique piece.
Why the cut is so important – The 4Cs
Whether a diamond truly impresses depends not only on its size or clarity, but also significantly on the way it has been cut. The cut is one of the four classic quality criteria for diamonds, summarized under the term 4Cs: carat, color, clarity, and cut.
Carat – the weight
The carat indicates the weight of a diamond. One carat is equal to 0.2 grams. The higher the carat, the rarer – and more expensive – a diamond is. However, a larger stone is not automatically more impressive. Without the right cut, even a diamond weighing several carats will appear flat and lifeless.
Color – how white is the stone?
Diamonds are graded on a color scale from D (colorless) to Z (yellowish). The closer a diamond is to colorless, the higher its grade – and usually its price. Colorless to lightly tinted stones are ideal for brilliant-cut diamonds, as they reflect light particularly well.
Clarity – how clear is the inside?
Clarity describes whether there are any inclusions or irregularities inside the diamond. These natural features arise during the formation of the stone and influence light refraction and appearance. The clearer the diamond, the clearer and more brilliant it appears.
Cut – the heart of brilliance
The cut determines how well light is refracted and reflected through the stone. It is not just about the external shape, but also about the exact ratio of facets, angles, and proportions. Only a precisely cut diamond can reveal its famous “fire” – that lively mixture of brilliance, luminosity, and sparkle that makes diamonds so unique.
The brilliant cut in particular requires the highest precision. Small deviations in angle or symmetry can prevent the light from being reflected optimally – the stone appears dull or lifeless, even though it is objectively of high quality. That is why the cut is not only an aesthetic criterion, but also a genuine quality factor.
Why this is important
Many customers focus on carat weight when making a purchase – but without a perfect cut, the “wow effect” is often lacking. In practice, a smaller, well-cut diamond can often appear brighter and more vibrant than a large, poorly cut stone.
When choosing a brilliant-cut diamond, you should therefore pay attention not only to size and color, but above all to the quality of the cut – because it is what transforms a beautiful diamond into a truly dazzling brilliant.
Which cut suits me best?
Choosing the right cut is not just a matter of taste, but also an expression of your personality. While the brilliant cut impresses with its intense luminosity, the old cut scores with historical charm and a touch of individuality. Both cuts bring out different facets of a diamond – and have their own unique strengths.
Do you love clean lines and modern design?
Then the brilliant cut is probably just right for you. With its symmetrical shape and precise arrangement of facets, it offers a brilliant, even sparkle – regardless of the incidence of light. Jewelry with a brilliant cut has a clear, elegant, and timelessly modern look. Especially for engagement rings, solitaire pendants, or classic stud earrings, the brilliant cut is the first choice for anyone who values maximum brilliance and classic aesthetics.
Do you prefer vintage style and truly unique pieces?
If you are drawn to nostalgic details and appreciate handcrafted individuality, old-fashioned cuts may be more suited to you. No two old-fashioned cuts are alike - small variations in shape and faceting make each piece unique. Jewelry with old-fashioned cuts often appears somewhat warmer, calmer, and more emotional. It is perfect for people who prefer character and depth to purely technical sparkle.
Our recommendation: Quality matters – not just style
No matter which cut you choose, the true effect of a diamond always depends on the quality of its craftsmanship. At heroyne, we place particular emphasis on precise craftsmanship, perfect proportions, and high-quality settings that optimally enhance the sparkle of the stone.
Still not sure which cut is right for you? Our team will be happy to advise you – personally, competently, and with great attention to detail. This way, you will find exactly the piece of jewelry that underlines your charisma.
Conclusion: Diamond or brilliant cut – what really matters
The difference between a diamond and a brilliant cut is quickly explained, but clearly noticeable in its effect: while the diamond is the natural raw material, it is the brilliant cut that transforms it into a piece of jewelry with maximum brilliance. The brilliant cut stands for the highest precision and light reflection – technically perfect, timelessly beautiful. The old cut, on the other hand, embodies a nostalgic style with individual expression and artisanal depth.
Both cuts showcase the uniqueness of the diamond in their own way. Ultimately, it comes down to your personal taste: do you want a piece of jewelry with clear elegance or one with a characterful history?
Whatever you prefer, at heroyne you will find genuine craftsmanship, made with passion and reduced to the essentials: form, function, and expression. We are happy to help you find the right diamond for your piece of jewelry – whether it's a brilliant cut, an old cut, or another shape that suits you.